Ontario wine pioneer says goodbye

Ask any wine critic about the hard to pronounce grape variety Gewurztraminer, and a couple-of words come to mind: Misunderstood, underrated.

When Allan Jackson thinks of his favourate wine, other thoughts come to mind: Flexible, great character, spicy.

Maybe it's because the 57- year-old Jackson, a bit of an undercover Canadian wine mogul, sees himself in the sometimes-forgotten aromatic grape.

"It's kind of away from the mainstream, which has kind of always been part of who I am," Jackson said wryly. For years he worked behind the scenes helping build what was Canada's biggest domestically-owned wine company, Vincor International.

His name is emblazoned on the Jackson-Triggs wine label -- a reminder of his partnership with businessman Donald Triggs that started it all.

Triggs would go on to be the face of the company as chief executive officer. Jackson, who preferred to keep his name out of the headlines, worked in the cellars and vineyards, overseeing wine production and building a quality team.

Last month, the warm, well-respected man with a satirical sense of humour retired after more than 30 years working in the Canadian wine business.

The legacy Jackson leaves behind of fostering winemaking talent is great, says noted Toronto- based wine writer Tony Aspler.

"His legacy is something that should be celebrated," he said. "Again, he's kept a low profile on the international stage, but I think he deserves the Order of Canada for what he's done."

Jackson was a brainy kid who grew up in Hamilton's west end playing football and baseball. His dad, Harold, was a elementary school principal. His mother, Isabel, a grade school teacher.

The youngest of three siblings, Jackson opted instead to become an academic, eventually earning a PhD in chemistry from McMaster University. His doctoral thesis focused on taste characteristics of different grape varieties to help improve the quality of Canadian wines.

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